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Flat Top Range Flat Top Range Whirlpool Stove Top Flat Top Range Top Electric Ranges

Perfect Top Electric Ranges Info

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from this to this with a little bit of this and this but this can turn into this and this if you don’t know about this ! Electric stove tops and ovens have revolutionized the way that we cook and live with precision temperature control nearly instant surface heat and simple clean up we can spend less time sweating over a hot stove and more time stuffing our bellies as wonderful as all this may seem few will ever give a second thought to how it all works that is until it’s not working anymore let’s take a moment to look at the electric burner element what’s under that marvelous shiny facade what’s cause the stove that you’ve neglected to suddenly turn cold and how you can rekindle the heat that you never really appreciated until it was gone like most appliances ovens and stovetops are actually fairly simple machines they use a series of electrical circuits to energize different components at the proper times as always a great amount of caution should be used when troubleshooting and repairing electric appliances to keep that last meal from being your last meal fortunately almost all the components in electric stove top oven can be tested while disconnected from the electrical supply if you don’t have one of these babies or don’t know the first thing about how to use one I’ve got you covered let your fingers do the walking in come on down to ApplianceAssistant. com and have one of these shipped to your front door why you learn how to use it by reading a website don’t get much easier than that okay enough with my yapping let’s get to the fixing. Let’s start at the top or more appropriately the surface whether you have a glass top or coil elements the idea is the same turn a switch to send electricity through the burner element and bingo you’ve got heat what could go wrong well actually there’s three things that can go wrong ether the switch doesn’t close and allow electricity to flow to the burner element the burner element is broken in some way and won’t allow electricity to flow through it or the circuit is not energized with the correct amount of electricity needed to do its work heating elements used electric ranges need 240 volts to operate in fact when heating element is on it is constantly supplied with 120 volts it is only one other independent circuit is applied used to cycle the element on and off that heat is actually generated first let’s check the power supply plug your plug will have three or four connections two hot connections and one neutral connection in this case there is also a ground connection set your meter at the first setting above 240 volts AC and check the right and left sides independent from one another to the neutral connection each should give a reading around 120-volts now check across the two hot connections you should get a reading around 240 volts if you don’t, reset the breakers that monitor the range circuit and try again if that worked congratulations If not let’s keep digging each one of the three components used in electric burner circuit can be tested for continuity now if you just thought to yourself what the heck does not mean read the how to use a voltmeter website and then you’ll be up to speed remember that when checking for continuity or resistance the component being tested needs to be disconnected from the rest to the circuit to prevent false readings through some parallel circuit because the heating element generates heat through electrical resistance it should show some resistance when tested for continuity it should not show is being open or having infinite resistance the switch that routes electricity to the burner element can be checked in the same way it should be closed allowing electricity to flow through to the element whenever the switch is turned on it should also be open not allowing electricity to flow whenever the switch is turned off remember that with a 240-volt electric range It takes two to make a thing go right 120 volt circuit connections that is so fallow the wires back from the elements and check each connection independent from the other L1 input to output L2 input to output most switches are labeled L1 and L2 as well as H1 and H2 you may also see a P terminal L stands for line or input and H stands for heater or output the P terminal generally is the same connection is H1and is usually used for an indicator light so L1 H1 and L2 and H2 should show contact with the switch is on and nothing when the switch is off it’s always wise to snap a quick picture for reference before you start pulling off wires for your test an electric range burner switch is a very interesting device it’s often assumed that this style switch which is also called an infinite switch fluctuates the amount of current being supplied to the burner and so controls the amount of heat that is generated by the heating element in most cases this is not true except for some very high end stoves that use a device called a potentiometer the more commonly used infinite switch has an adjustable temperature sensitive bi-metal contact that will opening close one at the two 120-volt circuits cycling the burner on of automatically to maintain a desired temperature as current flows through the closed which a small amount of heat is generated causing this thin strip of metal to Flex out and break contact by setting the burner switch to high the maximum amount of physical pressure is placed on this flexible contact making it more difficult to flex out and open the circuit while a lower setting reduces the amount of fiscal pressure making it easy flex and open.

Because infinite switches is use the flow of current to generate the heat required for opening and closing the switch is important to note the wattage or amperage ratings of the switch the switched used to control a large burner element with a 10 amp draw will not correctly cycle a small burner that uses less amperage and vice versa so what if the burner sticks on? well the most common cause would be the contacts within the switch are sticking closed or that carbon has built up and is bridging the gap that would normally exist in a new switch the most common electrical supply problem is a bad contact for connection especially when you’re dealing with the range that has coil elements that plug into a receptacle which is also called the block these contacts can become corroded over time and may need to be cleaned with sandpaper or replaced in extreme cases. I know that was kind of a lot of information a pack into 7 minutes but I hope that you found it helpful please remember to like share and share! There’s a lot more appliance troubleshooting repair help and parts available and ApplianceAssistant. com thank you for reading!.

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