Beneficial Large Round Coffee Table Nicole Frehsee Home Large Round Coffee Table
Beneficial Large Round Coffee Table Nicole Frehsee Home Large Round Coffee Table

Beautiful Large Round Coffee Table

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What’s going on everybody, I’m Johnny Brooke, welcome back to another Crafted Workshop website. In today’s website, I’m going to show you how to build this live edge slab coffee table. I used a router flattening jig to flatten this enormous slab.

This is an end grain, they call it a “cookie” slab, it’s cut out of the tree horizontally. Also installed one of these bow tie keys, or sometimes they’re called Dutchmen, and they help to stabilize the wood. As you can see, there’s a pretty sizable crack in this slab, but between the base spanning this crack and the bow tie key, it should be nice and stabilized. So, let’s go ahead and get started with the build! The first step in this build is to make the router flattening jig. These jigs are really simple to make, you basically just need a sled for your router to ride on above the slab. This sled rides on two rails, one on each side of the slab. I sized the base of the sled to be wide enough to fit the base of my router plus the widths of the side walls of the sled. I made the base out of ½” plywood, which allowed me to get more depth without having to use a collet extension on my router. Once I knew the width I needed, I ripped the plywood to width on the table saw. For the side walls, I used two strips of ¾” plywood glued together. Since I used ½” plywood for the bottom of the sled, I wanted to make sure it was nice and stiff. I cut the sides to length at the miter saw using some offcuts of plywood I had on hand. I glued the pieces together, added a few brad nails to hold them in place, and then added some 1 ¼” screws to tighten everything up. With the sides done, I added glue to the bottom of the sides, clamped them to the base, and then added countersunk screws from the underside of the sled. It’s really important that these screws are well below the surface, as you don’t want them interfering with the sled riding on the rails. Next, I needed to cut out the channel for the router bit. I marked the center of the base and then used a 2” Forstner bit to drill a hole on each side. Once the holes were drilled, I cut out the section between the holes using a jig saw. This doesn’t need to be very precise, as the router bit will be used to finish up this channel later on. To keep the sled from falling off the rails, I added some stops on the underside of the sled. These are just scraps of ¾” plywood, and I attached them using pocket screws. For the rails, I used a 2×8 and ripped it to rough width on the table saw. The width of your rails will depend on the thickness of your slab. The slab I’m flattening in this build is almost 6 inches thick, so I cut the rails to 6 ½” wide. After ripping the rails to rough width at the table saw, I ran that edge over the jointer to ensure it was perfectly flat. If you don’t have a jointer, you could either use a hand plane to flatten this edge or just hope that your table saw left you with a straight enough edge. Once I had one edge jointed, I ripped the rails to final width at the table saw. With the sled finished, I headed over to my buddy Ryan’s shop, where we’d be flattening and finishing the slab. Before flattening, I shimmed up the slab so that any rocking was removed, and then we used the router to clean up the channel in the bottom of the sled. We noticed that the rails were a little unstable here, so we attached a 2×4 between each end of the rails and this really helped to stabilize things. The router bit I’m using to flatten this slab is this monster of a bit from Infinity Tools. It has a 2” cutting diameter, 1” cutting depth. I’ll have a link to the bit in the website description if you want to check it out, I’d highly recommend using it for any router flattening project. With everything setup, I set the depth of the router to take about a ¼” off and started flattening. I made the initial pass standing in the direct path of all of the chips coming off the router, and ended up tearing up my shins. On the second pass, I moved to one side of the jig, and Ryan and I passed the router back and forth. This worked much, much better. We needed to make quite a few passes on the bottom of the slab to get it flat, but once it was, we flipped it over to work on the top.

Before flattening the top of the slab, I needed to rip off about an inch from each of the rails, so that the bit could get enough depth to fully flatten the top. We did also try using a collet extension to help give the bit a little more depth, but it ended up getting bent when the bit caught during one of the passes. Once the sled was back in business, we got to flattening the top of the slab. This only took one pass, but we did get a little impatient and were probably taking off about ½” of depth on this pass. Amazingly enough, this router and bit combo didn’t have any trouble and left a super clean surface. While we’re flattening, let’s talk about one of the sponsors of this week’s website, John C. Campbell Folk School. I recently had the opportunity to attend a week-long woodworking class at the school, and it was an amazing experience. John C. Campbell is located in Brasstown, NC, about two hours from Atlanta, Knoxville, and Asheville, so it’s centrally located to many places in the Southeast. They have classes on everything from woodworking to blacksmithing to drawing and much, much more. To learn more, visit their website at folkschool. org or check out the link in the website description below. With the slab flattened, we needed to clean up the absolutely ridiculous about of sawdust before moving on. If you’re going to flatten a slab like this, you absolutely need to wear a respirator. The dust this process produced was insane. I think we filled about four of these 33 gallon trash bags full of dust. Once the shop was a little cleaner, we started cleaning up the edges of the slab. There was quite a bit of rotten sapwood and bark on the edges of the slab, and I just knocked these pieces off with a chisel and mallet. After removing all of the loose pieces, Ryan cleaned up the edges using a belt sander. As you might have noticed, this slab has a pretty massive crack running down the center. To stabilize the slab, we decided to add a bow tie key, sometimes called a Dutchman or butterfly. I cut the bow tie out of a scrap piece of Walnut off camera using my bandsaw and then traced the outline of the bow tie onto the top of the slab. Next, I used a trim router with a ¼” up/down cut spiral bit to clear out most of the waste. With the majority of the waste removed, I cleaned up the walls of the pocket using a 1” chisel. Since I got so close to my lines with the router, I could chisel right to my line and get a nice, clean fit with the bow tie. After dry fitting the bow tie, I added glue and pounded it home using a mallet. Once the glue had dried, I came back with a plane to flush up the bow tie. And I only brought my smoothing plane with me to Ryan’s shop, which probably wasn’t the best choice, but it still only took a few minutes to flush it up. Next, Ryan sanded the slab, first using a belt sander to remove any of the big router marks and then switching to a random orbit sander. While he’s sanding, let’s take a second to talk about one of the sponsor of this week’s website, eComfort. com. The summer heat has been making it really tough to stay out in the shop, so I reached out to the folks at eComfort, a retailer specializing in home heating, venting & cooling. We found an LG mini-split unit that was perfect for my shop space, and I had it installed by an HVAC technician in my area. To see a more in-depth website on the installation process, check out the website on my second channel, and to learn more about eComfort, visit the link in the website description below. Once we were finished sanding, it was time to apply finish. We went with a simple Danish oil finish, as we wanted the natural look of the wood to really show through. We applied two coats, letting the oil soak into the wood for about 30 minutes between coats, and wiped off any excess that remained on the surface. With the slab done, it was time to build the base. And I actually built the base in my shop before heading over to Ryan’s, since we only had limited amount of time there. For the base, I kept it really simple and just made a modern looking base using 2x4s. First, I cut the pieces to length. I’ll have a cut list available in the blog post that will go along with this build, which will be linked to in the website description. After cutting the pieces to length, I ran them through my planer just to clean them up. This is a totally optional step and you could skip it if you don’t have a planer. With the faces nice and clean, I decided to rip off the roundover on each edge of the 2x4s, which I did on the table saw. To assemble the base, I used pocket holes. The way the base is designed makes it so that none of the pocket holes are visible in the final piece, so you don’t have to fill these holes later. I did run into one issue during assembly. I didn’t think about the fact that planing the 2x4s would make the standard 2 ½” pocket screws that you’d typically use with dimensional lumber like this a little bit too long, so I had to switch to regular 2” pan head screws. These ended up working fine, but it’s something to keep in mind. To further reinforce each corner, I added one Powerhead screw to each corner, using FastCap’s Flushmount drill bit to countersink the screws. Next, I needed to attach the stretchers that connected the legs to each other. I centered the stretchers on the legs and then clamped them in place, making sure I was on a flat surface, my table saw in this case. With the stretcher clamped in place, I added 2 ½” pocket screws to secure the stretcher in place and I repeated this step for the other stretcher. After assembly, I sanded the base thoroughly with 120 grit then 180 grit sandpaper. For the finish, I added a few coats of black spray paint. I really like how the grain pattern shows through on the base, I think it gives it an awesome textured look. To attach the base to the slab, I used a few 2 ½” screws, making sure to slightly widen the holes in the base to allow for wood movement. Finally, I added some felt pads to the bottom of the base off camera, and the table was done. Alright, hopefully you guys enjoyed this one. This was a lot of work, but I really love the way it came out. That router flattening jig just makes an incredible mess but it really does a good job getting the surface nice and flat. This was basically just part of a tree that was cut down in my buddy Ryan’s neighborhood, he’s the one who built this slab table with me, and I think it turned out absolutely beautiful. If you guys liked this project, go ahead and get commentd. I put out new project websites like this every Tuesday. I also have links to all of the tools and materials I used in the website description below. And last, I want to say a big thanks to all of my Patreon supporters, you guys are awesome. I’ll have a list of all of my $10 and up patrons on the screen. Thanks again for reading everybody and, until next week, happy building. .

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